Hello All! Welcome back to the blog. Before we recommence chapter two, I must just tell you about a wonderful walk we did before we went back to UK in December. It was a glorious Sunday, so we picked up Clare, Chris and Pat in the Toyota and headed to Gocek, which is a pretty little marina town on the way to Dalaman. In the cliffs behind Gocek is a great canyon walk which Iain and I had done a couple of years before with Canan, Erhan and Andre.
We thought we could remember the way so parked up by the Mosque and headed to the foot of the canyon. It was quite hard work climbing the rocks and scree and we couldn’t locate the path straight away and found ourselves doubling back a couple of times. Eventually we phoned Erhan, and he explained where the turn was, so back up we went (again) and there it was. As we climbed the views opened out and we could see the cove and Marina’s at Gocek stretching below us.
In true Turkish fashion we’d brought a picnic with us, and Pat had made fruit scones, so when we reached the top we found a suitable rock each and settled down to eat our lunch in the warm sun looking at the amazing view.
December saw us mostly back in the cold and windy South West, one of the highlights of which was M&D’s 40th wedding anniversary party. A good time was had by all, and you’ve never seen so much food. Mum had worked really hard preparing a wide range of savoury delights, and planned entertainment for the children. Nan was in good form, looking gorgeously coordinated in a green outfit.
The following Friday we were booked to leave and had to contend with the upset and chaos that the British weather is so good at causing. This time fog was making it difficult for planes to taxi about the runaway, but fortunately for us most of the problems were at Heathrow and Stanstead, Gatwick being fairly OK. Nevertheless it took 2 hours of queuing to get to the front of the check-in desk. Once there the staff were so frazzled they didn’t get picky over the baggage allowance, so we didn’t have to pay any extras.
A four hour delay on the flight, meant we landed at 8am instead of the planned 2am. Better really as the dawn had broken and we were greeted by a lovely, clear but chilly day in Dalaman, and a warm welcome from Pat.
We’d had to leave our car with the customs people while we were out of Turkey, so Pat decided to try and see if we could get someone to release the car today (Saturday) rather than have to wait. She pleaded and conversed until the poor may agreed to phone the director for permission. He (or maybe she) was not so forthcoming and like De-Gaulle said Non. We’d have to come back Monday, which was Christmas Day. We explained that this was our big holiday, so that was not possible, so we settled on going there Boxing day.
Pat dropped us and our stuff back to Fethiye, and Nese and Ramazan helped us in with the bags. Nese said breakfast was ready, so we dumped the stuff and headed next door for a welcome Turkish brekkie and to catch up with all the gossip.
The next morning Pat had booked up a Sunday Breakfast at Yonca Lodge which is a beach side camp site in Yaniklar. After a well needed lie in, we got there at around 11.30, to find Pat and Chris and Jan waiting for us, sat around a table set up right in the sand on the beach. The sun was well up and warm and playing sparklies on the lapping tide. Perfect. The breakfast here is superb. Freshly cooked eggs to your preference, unlimited tea or coffee, cheeses, jams, breads, honey, olives, tomatoes, fresh orange slices, plus more that I’ve forgotten. We had a long and lazy brunch catching up on the last few weeks and left there around 2 or 3. Luckily we still had the scooter to get us around!
That afternoon, I spent making gift tags to go on the Christmas presents. I selected a photo of each person and added Christmas hats and beards, before printing them out. They looked fab.
Christmas day was spent at Pat and Chris’s with Jan and Mustafa. Pat and Chris had the house
decorated with a tree and everything and excelled themselves with a fantastic meal. Jan brought her little carroty falafels for pre dinner nibbles, followed by a starter of pate and toast. Full roast Turkey with sausages and bacon, stuffing, bread sauce, mushroom sauce, sprouts, roasties – plus a few other veggies which I forget, followed. If that wasn’t enough there was Trifle and chocolate log for pudding.
Jan, Mustafa, Chris and Iain played Okey while Pat and I squared up the kitchen, and then we all relaxed with liqueurs by the fireside.
We stayed the night at Pat’s and after a lazy breakfast of the last of the bacon with eggs, we headed off in the gas fired monster to Dalaman to see if we could get the car out.
We arrived at about 11.20 and we told that we’d have to pay the parking charges before they could begin the paperwork and release the car. OK, no probs we said, here’s the cash. Oh no, we can’t handle money! Said they, you’ll have to pay the Maliye (which is the tax office). Here I had visions that we’d have to trek back to Fethiye – they do like to give you the run around in Turkey! No, no they said, there is a Maliye office in the arrivals section of the airport. As we turned to leave, Pat said, by the way, what time do you have your lunch? 12 til 1.30pm said the customs officer. It was now 11.30 – You’ll never make it back here before 12 he said with a twinkle. We’d already encountered this particularly unhelpful chappy when we’d tried to drop the car off before. Game on! Said Pat and we legged it to her car and sped around to the terminal.
There were no flights going in or out so the airport was really quiet. Pat and Iain ran into the terminal, through the security checks and searched for the little office that was tucked away around a corner. I waited with the car in case somebody needed to move us on. Within 3 minutes they were out and by 11.36 we were back in front of the desk with our little receipt. They were amazed, but the miserable little bloke had disappeared anyway. We were left with the rest of the office, and they were a much happier and friendlier bunch. It wasn’t long before the process was underway and we were all joking and laughing and making fun of the bureaucratic process. After much information giving and box signing we were taken out to the lot to retrieve the car. There were loads of other cars in the pound and we asked what happens to them. Apparently after a 3 month wait they are sent to Izmir and then sold.
We said thanks and farewell to the customs guys who by now had had so much fun with us they asked us to call in for tea any time we were at the airport.
With thanks to Pat we convoyed it out of the airport. On the way back we decided to stop and look at a Lycian rock tomb that we’d noticed by the roadside on the way over. These are quite impressively carved and crop up all over the mountain sides in this area. There is a particularly important one in the mountains behind Fethiye.
Next up, as the day was so beautiful, we thought we’d check out the beach at Inclice. It was a good sized sandy beach and absolutely deserted. We strolled up and on the way down saw a car driving along the beach side. The car stopped and inside was a friend we’d not seen for a while, Elaine! We said hello’s and met her friend Mavis. It’s amazing who you meet in the strangest out of the way places.
By now the afternoon was moving along and we had to get back to get ready to go to a Boxing day party at Stuart and David’s villa in Ovacik.
The wind really got up, and it was chilly waiting for the Dolmus. When it finally arrived it was packed, but a couple of Turkish guys got out from the front seats next to the driver so we could sit down – very kind. It was a nice new Mercedes Dolmus, and the guy had his heater on full pelt, so it was a cosy trip up the mountain. Walking to Stuart & David’s through the strong wind was hard as the dusk was flying into our eyes, and we saw someone’s solar panels flapping in the wind, barely held on by a few last remaining screws. We renewed our caution and kept an eye out for flying debris.
Stuart and David’s villa Lavanta is AMAZING. Very large, a self contained part downstairs, lovely open plan living area on a mezzanine and then 3 or 4 good bedrooms upstairs. They had it decorated really well, and the coup de gras was a sparkling silvery toilet seat! Very glam. We met old friends and new and partook of a wonderful buffet, which included a chocolate fountain with strawberries and marshmallows to dip in – brilliant!
We danced a little and David compered a ‘guess the TV theme tune’. They had a very well stocked drinks selection, and David offered us all to try the special Villa Lavanta Cocktail, which was Tequila and dried ants, yep you heard right, ants! From Harrods no less. Iain and I tried it and it was quite nice! The ants gave it a nice nutty tang. Next up we tried Absinthe. I’d never had this before and was interested to see what it was like, after hearing so many Parisian artists had lost their minds on it. It was really strong, and I decided to stop at a few sips.
The next few days were spent getting ready for the New Years Party, which we decided we’d host. Cleaning the house, doing invites and shopping. We asked people to bring a plate or a bottle to help with the catering.
Often the power goes off here, mainly during the day for a few minutes or so, but Thursday evening, the power went off around 7pm for a couple of hours. OK for us as we have the wood burner keeping us warm and candles and lamps to see by – quite cosy actually. We heard voices in the hallway and went to investigate to find Adem and Nese in about 6 layers of jumpers seeing Dilara out as she was going to see a friend.
Come over says we, it’s warm in our house – they are relying on the aircon to keep warm, and without power it’s no use. In they come and we sit and chat and have a few drinks in candle light. Nese told me that a neighbour across the street (Attic and Tenor), their daughter had just got engaged and that all the family was round – nearly 50 people in a very small living room. She said she was going to wait till maybe 11 before going over when most of them would have gone home, and did we want to go with her? Sure, why not. We’d met the family and they are really lovely people.
About 10 the power came back, so we all got changed and went over to the neighbours at about 10.30. Attic likes a drink, so immediately offered Iain and I a Jack Daniels (I demurely declined). Never a dull moment here.
We met Pat, Chris and Jan at Mustafa’s carpet shop in Paspatur (the old part of Fethiye) on Friday lunchtime, and Pat invited us over on Saturday night to sample her Turkey and mushroom pie. Not to be missed, we gratefully accepted. Next Jan asked if we’d pop up to Yakamoz to see her as she was having problems with her lappy, and getting skype and her headphones to work. In return she’d treat us to Fish and Chips at ‘Codswallop’in Hisaronu. Well I’m my father’s daughter, and F&C is always welcome, so we agreed to pop up and see her late afternoon. The F&C were excellent, as was the turkey pie!
Sunday saw us busy preparing the house and food for the party. Dead on 7pm, the Turkish contingent arrived laden with food, plates, cutlery, breads, wines, soft drinks and Raki. Very well organised. They all took there shoes off and had either brought slippers to wear, or clean shoes that they could wear indoors (to match their outfits of course). All the food was going in one room at the back, and then we set aside the other back room for dancing, and the front salon for backgammon and general chatting etc. The kitchen was for getting drinks and the smokers.
Pat and Chris had arrived at about 6.30 and helped with the final preparations. The part went well, and the British contingent turned up fashionably later bearing food, cakes and trifle! We learned during the evening that two of our Turkish guests, Attic and Nesrettin were celebrating their birthday today on the 31st, so we hijacked the cake and Pat rammed a few household candles into it. Gathering everyone into the salon, we sang them happy birthday as they blew out a couple of candles each. The younger people happily entertained themselves in the back room doing Turkish dancing, while some of the men played backgammon tournaments and the rest of us circulated and chatted, grazing the magnificent buffet spread that we now had.
At 11, we gathered Adem, Ramazan and their families together to give them their Christmas presents. Normally they wait until midnight, but as it was a large party we thought it best to do it before hand. Elifnas was so pleased with the cardigan we’d got here she strutted around proudly, showing off to all and sundry. As before, I’d done labels with their pictures on and they were made up by them.
At midnight, David produced a CD of Big Ben and Auld Langs Eine, so we made a circle and joined crossed arms while we sang in the new year. Iain’s boss had very generously given him a bottle of Taittinger Champagne when he’d left and Jan provided a Turkish version, so we popped the corks and all toasted each other while exchanging new year kisses.
After an hour or so, people started to drift home, with the final people leaving around 2am. Chris and Pat helped as load the dishwasher and snap wrap the remaining food before we too retired to our beds.
And so, I think that brings us more or less up to date. The last couple of days have been spent cleaning the house (again) and catching up with this blog!
As a testament to ‘you never know what will happen next’ here, we have just spent another interesting afternoon. Initially at about 1pm, Nese knocked on the door to invite us in for coffee. On arrival we found Adem pouring a couple of Scotches for him and Iain. Not to be left out, I nipped home and retrieved the Port to Nese and I. As the aircon was on in their salon, we went in to the room to find they had rearranged all their furniture and it looked brilliant. The massive TV was on, so while Nese made the coffee, we nipped home again to see if we could find a good DVD to watch. We settled on I Robot, which was very impressive on their big TV and mega cinema surround speaker system. During the film Ramazan. Ebru and the girls popped round – Elifnas still in her Christmas Cardy.
Now, this year has been an unusual one for Muslim Turks as the Kurban Bayram – festival of the sacrifice began on New Years Eve. Many families came together to sacrifice their offerings of sheep, goats and sometimes cows. They donate most of the meat to the poor and the skins to the air force. These are picked up by representatives in open backed trucks who tour around the streets with loud hailers.
The neighbours from across the road, whose daughter had got engaged, and the father of which also had one of the NYE birthdays, announced at the party that they were sacrificing a very large turkey. They had looked for Adem to do the deed on Sunday, but he was out visiting family.
Adem and Iain were therefore now enlisted to sacrifice the turkey. It was HUGE! A very impressive white male turkey. They changed into suitable clothes and we all trouped around the corner to Attic’s house. Iain held the bird down while Adem wielded the knife. It was over in a flash and they then strung the beast up and began plucking it, followed by burning off the remaining smaller feathers.
The evicerated bird weighed in at around 18kg. It will be cooked tomorrow in the local Pide bread oven (as it is too big for any of us) and we're all going to eat together - it'll be like Christmas all over again!!
Until next time - Mutlu Yillar! happy New Year!